The Problem: You have oil or coolant in the valley of your truck
which presents itself down the back of the engine.
The Fix: The best way to fix this problem is none better than
removing the upper & lower intake and making a visual inspection. The best way to remove the upper intake is to loosen all the bolts that hold it down and try prying upward on them to get their fasteners out of the plastic. Most notably on the 4 bolts which attach at both of the intake manifolds to the valve covers. These are typically the ones which get hung up. Do your best to remove the passenger side first in a counterclockwise rotation. Typically you can pull the upper intake past the coolant by-pass, from there the intake should come out freely.
The Problem: In earlier model Ford Diesel Trucks, turbo failure
was a problem.
Why: These trucks have a Garrett G32 Turbo with ceramic ball
bearings. The reason most of these turbos failed is a result of the ceramic ball bearings in the turbo. Here’s the kicker, we’ve seen quite a few 2011 & 12 trucks with their original turbo and no issue. What’s their trick? REGULAR MAINTENANCE. Changing your oil every 5,000 miles and using good quality filters and oil will prevent this problem from happening in the future! Also keep in mind that these turbos have coolant running through them so keeping up with your coolant flushes and keeping your radiator clean is another way to keep your turbo in great shape!
The Problem: P04DB, P04E2, or P04E3 Or also know as a Crank
Case Vent Code
Why Did it Happen: The best scenario we’ve been able to come
up with is that the residual oil that sits in the crank case vent inlet
causes the sensor in the crank case vent to fail
The Fix: Simply order a new CCV vent from your local Ford
dealership. If your vehicle was built on or before Nov 11,2015 your vehicle may be covered under provisions of your New Vehicle Warranty from an extended coverage program. Call your local dealership to see if your vehicle is covered for free! If you are planning to pay for this repair out of pocket you’re probably looking at a $250-350 cost.
Turbo Shaft play is common among all diesel pickups, typically
those which haven’t had their oil changed regularly. Turbo shaft play is difficult to diagnose in writing and most technicians measure it by feel. You can measure turbo shaft play using a dial indicator, but most of the time it’s obvious when a turbo charger
is going out. Typically, the customer will state that they hear a funny whistling noise, lack of performance, or an awful noise coming from under the hood which is usually loud and high pitched. When checking for turbo shaft play, you will want to check for vertical & horizontal movement as well as thrust movement. If you see that the turbo blades have struck the walls of your turbo housing it’s definitely time to replace your turbo as this is too much play.
The Problem: On early 2011 model ford 6.7L engines, the glow
plugs have a tendency to break causing catastrophic engine
failure.
Why does this happen: The material used to make these glow
plugs is weakened over time and the tips break off
The Fix: Replacing these glow plugs with genuine OEM Ford glow
plugs is the best fix for this problem! The best way to go about
replacing these is by removing the fender wells